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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.